Garment-seam



81 H. GOLDSTEIN. GARMENTSEAIV. APPLICATiON FILED APR 9.1920.

iifiw fim Patented July 12,1921.

, to provide a new and -'such drawin s are il Nided provision of a mode of BARNETT n. oonnsrnrn, or new Your, n. Y.,

ASSIG-NOR O35 ONE-SIXTH SE30 MAX ruenrsaroun-sxxrn T0 ROBERT 1).. VON Rnnrscn, AND ONE-SIXTH TO Jason GOLDSTEIN, ALL OF NEW YORK, N. Y.

GARMENT-$EAM.

firiginal' application filed Febriiary 6,

a citizen of the United States, and residing in Bronx county, city of New York, and State of New York, has invented a new and useful Improvement in Garment-Seams, of which the following'isa specification.

This invention relates to an improvement in garments and particularly to the production of a new and improved garment seam which permits of readily opening the seam of a garment and shifting it either farther inward or outward, thus increasing or decreasing the dimension of the garment. N This invention is particularly applicable to garments such as trousers, which are pr0- with waist band lining and the width of which must and a further object ofthis' invention is the attachment of the waist band lining which permits of the shifting of the seam with aminimum of effort and mutilation and at a minimum expenditure of time.

A still further object of this invention is improved method of manufacturing trousers, in which a machine can be used almost wholly and which results not only in a'better and'neater garment but, which enables the garment to be produced by the less skilled mechanics, and then too at a saving of time, expense and efiort. -j' Other objects and advantages of the invention 'will appear "from the following specification in connection with the appended drawing. 1

The inventive idea involved is capable of receivin a variety of exressions, one 0 which or the purpose 0 illustrating the invention is shown in the accompanying drawings,but it is exlpressly understood that ustrative only, and are not intends to define the limits of the invention, reference being had to the appended claims for this purpose.

This application is a division of application Serial No. 356,581, filed February 6, 1920.

In the drawings,-'

Figure 1 shows a perspective view of a pair of trousers showing the inner side of the back frequently. be altered f the flap 15 is free of mating this cause of mutilation and Specification of Letters Patent. Patented July 1 2, 1921.

1920, Serial No. 356,581 Divided and. this application filed. April 9, 1920. Serial No. 372,492.

Fig. 2 is an enlarged view of the back seam with the flaps and curtain bellows lifted.

Fig. 3 is a section through the rear seam. The invention is illustrated in connection with a pair of trousers 1, although it is obvious that the invention is equally applicable to other types of garments such skirts. The invention in fact is of general application wherever a shiftable seam is desired under similar circumstances.

The leg portions 10 and 12 of the trousers are secured together by the vertical row of stitches 14, extendingsubst'antially to a point adjacent the top edge'of the trousers particular attention being called to the fact that these stitches pass only through the material. I y

Attached to the waistband of the trousers material is the curtain lining 2 having the bellows fold 4. This curtain lining is so cured to the top edge of the trousers material in any desired manner such as by the stitches 7 which pass through the curtain lining and trouser material following continuously along the too edge of the trouser leg to the end 8 thereo and then down along the flap edge, the trouser leg then being turned to give the effect of Fig. 3, as set forth in my aforesaid co-pending application. The curtain lining is then further secured to the trouser material by the row of stitching 11 located below the bellows fold and arranged to be concealed thereby. Particular attention is called to. the fact that the horizontal stitches 11 do not extend beyond the back seam onto the flap but terminate on a line with the vertical. row of stitches 14; As a result of this provision, all stitches and stitch marks except those numbered 7 thus elimi disfiguration, in addition to the saving of labor and material.

. In finishing the trousers from the leg porrowed merely by removing the stitches 14 and replacing them either farther inwardly or outwardly as the need may be. This can be done in any desired manner, and, as is obvious, some of the stitches securing the lining to the trouser material, maybe removed, should it be necessary to this operation. Not only is the desired change made,

in this quick, simple and expeditious manner, but as the stitches do not pass through the lining members 2, no stitches will ape shifting of the lines of stitches'M will not mutilate the garment unn cessa'rily.

This method of making the trousers furthermore secures this'most important result. In attaching the wast band linin members to the trouser mat rial by the stitc es 11, the stitches are first un in on one leg from one side of the row of stitches l4 and'in the direction of such row of stitches until the row of stitches is reached when without any shifting, the needle is raised over the flaps 15 and the stitches started again on the other legf from the line of stitches 14: this time away'from the line of stitches 14. In other words by his new method applicant is enabled to make the line 11 of stitches on both legs in one continuous sewing operation continued at all times in the same direction. It thus becomes obvious that the.line of stitches 11 on both legs will be in the same straight line and not out of alinement as otherwise frequently occurs, the stitches 11 on one leg at the line of stitches 14 being sometimes inch above or below the terminating point of the other. This is of particular importance in view of the fact that these stitches appear through the material and any break such as indicated will at once show on the outside of the rear of the trousers on both sides of the seam. The further advantage is secured of a saving in stitches, with a consequent saving in labor and material. It is obvious that all of the above operations can be performed by the use of a machine. This advantage is in itself one of great importance in this art.

The flaps 15 formed in the rear seam may if desired be" taclgd downin any desired manner. v

I claim as fnev "and desire "to secure by Lette'rs Patent of'the United States is as fol lows:/

i n'a garment, lining members secured alo ric of the garment and underlying the said lining members so as not to interfere with.

the same in making or. adjusting the said line of stitching in passing the same through the material forming the parts of the garment. 1

2. The combination with a garment, of a lining member, said garment having a row of stitches connecting ends of the garment to form a seam therein inwardly of the ed es thereof, thus forming flaps extending eyond the stitches, and stitches uniting the lining member to the garment, said last mentioned stitches terminating at the first mentioned row of stitches.

3. In the art of making garments in which two parts of a garment are to be connected to fonn a seam and in which the parts of the garment are to be lined, the process which consists in first connecting the ends of the parts of thegarment by a row of stitches positioned inwardly of the'edges of the ends thus forming free flaps and then a line at an angle to the first men-' row of stitches, the last recited Having ,riow dbscribed my invention what gftheir' upper edges to the upper edges of/the main body fabric," and a line of .stitching passing only through the main body fab- .pear in the lining members at all, and the/ ing from any desired point in one part of the garment and running to the first mentioned line of stitches and starting at the I said line of stitches on the other part and continuing in the same direction as far as.

desired. i h

This specification signed thiseigh-th. day, of April, 1920/ BARNETT H. G'onnjsiEIN; 

